Guide to Tenerife

Beaches

Tenerife's coastline tends to be mostly rocky, but the resourceful islanders have managed to increase the range of beaches by importing sand. And not just any old sand, but soft golden sand shipped in from the Sahara Desert. As such, the beaches in the south coast resorts are really rather special – not to mention well served with watersports. They're popular though, so can get busy during the high season. However, if you're prepared to travel out of town a bit, you'll find some quieter, more secluded stretches of sand where you can get stuck into that bestseller while the kids splash about in calm, balmy waters. Of the island's natural beaches, El Medano stands out as being one of the best, with two miles of pale golden sand. It's a good spot for windsurfing, too. Then there are the two beaches at Los Cristianos to think about. Playa de las Vistas, to the west, is the better of the two, but both have good sands and safe swimming, not to mention easy access to cafes and restaurants. Alternatively, you can head for the northern tip of the island, where you'll find Playa Las Teresitas. With its Saharan-enhanced sands and swaying palms, it's a surprisingly quiet hideaway, especially on weekdays when the locals are at work. Or if you don't mind black, volcanic sand, Playa Jardin beach at Puerto de la Cruz is rarely crowded and there are plenty of cafes and bars lining the seafront. There's also a seafront lido here - a weird and wonderful complex of swimming pools that's a real hit with families. Sunbathing and sandcastles aside though, Tenerife's really popular with watersports junkies. The great weather, calm seas and offshore winds make it ideal for windsurfing and sailing. And the clear waters around are great for snorkelling and scuba diving, as well.

Eating out

When it comes to eating out, Tenerife's resorts are cosmopolitan with a capital C. You've got the works - everything from paella to pizza, Sunday roasts to Singapore noodles. So, it's easy to forget that the island has its own unique brand of cuisine that's worth seeking out. Just look for a 'menu tipico' sign. You'll be rewarded with good quality home cooking. We're talking hearty fare that puts the emphasis on simplicity, using fresh fish and vegetables. If you're not fussy about what you eat, you can just ask for the 'plato del dia' or dish of the day. As for choosing from the menu, star attractions to look out for include meat and fish stews, usually thickened with 'gofio' - a mixture of roasted wheat, maize and barley. They're often served up with papas arrugadas - wrinkly new potatoes that are heavily salted - accompanied by a garlicky red or green mojo sauce, made from peppers or coriander respectively. Make sure you leave room for dessert, though. Canarians love their sweet treats, like 'bienmesabes' - a syrupy pudding made of almonds and honey - and 'frangollo' - made from gofio, milk and dried fruit. In the drinks department, Canarian coffee is strong, so unless you're a true espresso freak, 'cafe con leche' is probably the best option. The local wines are not the best in the world, but drinkable and usually reasonably priced. If you're into sweet dessert wines, try the 'malvasia', known in the UK as Malmsey. There are also some reasonable local beers that won't set you back as much as the imported brands, the most popular with visitors being the smooth La Dorada, brewed in Santa Cruz.

· La Rosa di Bari, Puerto de la Cruz This is generally regarded as one of the best Italian restaurants on the island. The generous portions are accompanied by excellent service and a lively atmosphere.

· El Rincon del Marinero, Los Cristianos One of the best fish restaurants in Los Cristianos, this nautical-themed eatery has outdoor covered tables and serves the best 'zarzuela' this side of Santa Cruz. Tucked away in the corner of the harbour, El Rincon is easily identifiable by the fishing boat standing outside.

· Restaurant Marinero Jesse, Los Gigantes Set right on the seafront, this friendly, family-run restaurant serves up great paellas, seafood and fresh fish along with fantastic views. There's also a good selection of local wines.

· Los Troncos, Santa Cruz Located in one of the side roads off the city's main General Franco thoroughfare, this is the place for authentic Canarian cuisine cooked to perfection. The bienmesabe pudding is to die for.

· Mamma Rosa, Playa de las Americas If you like your food Mexican or Italian and your portions big, this is the place for you. The chicken fajitas are particularly irresistible. Mamma Rosa's is next to the Colon apartments, although it is independently owned.

Nightlife

Tenerife's nightlife sparkles like a glitterball. After dark, the big resorts turn into party zones with all kinds of late-night high jinks, from foam parties to hardcore clubbing. Without a doubt, the island's hotbed for night-time entertainment is the five-mile, neon-tastic strip of seafront that merges between Los Cristianos, Playa de las Americas and the Costa Adeje. You've got bars, discos, karaoke joints and clubs galore – and lots don't even start hotting up until midnight at the earliest. In Los Cristianos there's a string of happening clubs in the Centro Commercial San Telmo, behind Playa de las Vistas. And in Santa Cruz most of the nightlife is centred around the northern end of Avenida Anaga to the east of the city centre. But there's more to Tenerife's night scene than just cheesy pop and pumping house music. Fancy a flutter? Then make like James Bond at one of the island's three casinos. The Santa Cruz Casino in the Hotel Mencey and the Playa de las Americas Casino in the Gran Tenerife Hotel offer all the usual games of chance. But for sheer elegance and grandeur it has to be the Casino Taoro in Puerto de la Cruz. It's in a really grand old hotel where the rich and famous used to swill champagne over a century ago. Alternatively, for a 'knight to remember', there's the Medieval Dinner Show at the Castillo de San Miguel - not the original castle in Garachico, but a purpose-built one in the south of the island - where you can enjoy jousting, dancing and some general hey-nonny-nonny merrymaking. For some local colour, meanwhile, get off the beaten track. The flashy new Auditorio de Tenerife in Santa Cruz is home to opera and classical concerts and there's always flamenco. Okay, so strictly speaking it's not a Canaries tradition, but this is Spain after all and so it doesn't feel out of place. If you fancy a different take on the fiery foot-stamping and hand-clapping, head for Pyramid de Arona in Playa de las Americas, where they mix traditional flamenco with modern dance.

· Tramps, Playa de las Americas It's known in Tenerife as the 'King of Clubs' and is certainly big enough to live up to its name with space for 2000 clubbers. With three arenas, slick decor, a list of superstar DJs and music until 6am, it's no wonder this buzzing joint is packed night after night.

· Fitzpatrick's Irish Bar, Playa de las Americas Irish pubs get everywhere and Playa de las Americas is no exception. This friendly watering hole has regular live bands. Not to mention, of course, a plentiful supply of traditional stout and Irish whiskey.

· Jazzissimo, Playa de las Americas This stylish jazz and soul club is owned by legendary British jazzers Cleo Laine and John Dankworth. There's great live jazz, blues and soul nightly, while Saturday is salsa night.

· Arco Pub, Santa Cruz Enjoy a brightly coloured cocktail as you listen to a live band at this popular downtown venue. The music ranges from indie rock to electro-house and jazz.

· The Color Cafe, Puerto de la Cruz Situated on the lively Plaza Charco, this unusual cocktail bar is a great place to start your evening. Sip a cocktail and listen to Latin and African music. If you're lucky you might get a seat by the window with a view over the square.

Shopping

For a relatively small island, Tenerife's big on shopping. In fact you can put a serious dent in your holiday kitty here. In all the major resorts you'll find a wide range of stores selling everything from rubber rings and sombreros to clothes and perfumes. There are lots of Asian-run bazaars, too, where you can often haggle to get the price down. Out on the streets, African traders from Senegal are a common sight. They lay out their goods – leather, wood carvings, beads and the like - on the ground for passers-by to see. If, however, you're into the American-style shopping experience, head to the malls in the Anzana district of Santa Cruz. Cue big Spanish names like Mango and Zara. In the city itself, Avenida de 3 Mayo's is the place to head for a shopping spree. And if you really want to flash the cash, Calle de Pilar and nearby Parque Bulevar offer up plenty in the way of chichi boutiques. For an altogether different shopping experience, though, head for the Mercado de Nuestra Senora de Africa. Set close to the heart of the city's old quarter, this Moorish-style covered market has around 300 stalls selling all kinds of goodies, from colourful flowers to cheap CDs. On Sunday mornings it makes way for a flea market, a great place to pick up a bargain. Talking of bargains, there's one big advantage of shopping in Tenerife - the island's got its own special sales tax rate of 5% instead of the usual hefty VAT rates that you pay on the mainland. So prices are lower, whether you're buying some eau de toilette or an iPod. One last thing, if you want some traditional handicrafts, keep your eyes peeled for hand-stitched embroidery and lace, leather goods, pottery, wickerwork and neatly-turned wooden bowls.